Known as the Paris of the South, Aix-en-Provence was the former capital of Provence with a charming old town, boutique shops, outdoor cafes and things to do. Aix-en-Provence is famous for hosting quite the selection of lively outdoor markets. At first glance, it’s easy to see how the city charmed and inspired impressionist painters like Cézanne who lived and died there.

Aix-en-Provence is called the “City of a Thousand Fountains.” While I believe that’s an exaggeration, the light sound of fountains dribbling water as you pass through the city is a pleasant background soundtrack. You’ll stumble by a few on accident, but be sure to make your way to the one in Place d’Albertas and the grand Fontaine de la Rotonde at the end of Cours Mirabeau.

While there is plenty to do in town, its central location also makes the perfect base to road trip your way through Provence and visit villages like Lourmarin. We stayed there after a few days in Saint Jean on the French Riviera, so it also naturally pairs well with that area. 

After visiting twice, it’s still a place I’d visit again as there is always something new to see and experience. I’d happily live there. In this guide, I’ll start with the details about where I stayed and the best places to eat and grab a glass of wine. Then, cover the top things to do in Aix-en-Provence.

Where to Stay

Aix en Provence

I chose to stay at Le Pigonnet for its easy parking, pools, gardens, renowned onsite restaurant, and walking distance to the city center. I enjoyed our room and found it better than in the photos (a rare, welcomed surprise). The hotel was family-friendly and our room had enough space in the entry way near the mini bar for a crib.

From the bartender to the reception, the service and employees were excellent. It was very thoughtful how in depth the bartender explained the regional liquor offerings. 

Where to Eat

Tita – For falafel and fresh Mediterranean food. You might see a line of people waiting in the narrow street as you walk up. A sure sign of good food. I actually changed my order when I saw the mezze plate arrive at the table next to me, and I’m glad I did.

Maison Weibel – Beautiful pastries that I’d recommend getting to go. We waited patiently for a very long time at a table, and even the French woman sitting next to us went in a and asked what the hold up was. After she waited for a while longer and then left, we knew it was our time to just take some treats to go and get a coffee somewhere else. 

Café du Temps – Around the corner from Tita, this nice lunch spot near a fountain serves a mix of burgers, salads, vegetarian options and vegan desserts. 

La Méduse – Eclectic wine bar with a nice selection of local wines and unique bites (we missed out on the latter though because the kitchen doesn’t open until later). 

Farinoman Fou Aix – A traditional bakery where you’re greeted with a thick smell of bread as you walk in.

Kava Aix – Popular brunch spot with speciality coffee and pancakes covered in fruit. 

L’incontournable – Upscale restaurant with French classics. Find tables set up around the fountain in a narrow triangular outdoor terrace. 

Mammò – One word: charcuterie. 

Maison Béchard – Family business since 1870 crafting pastries, chocolates and confections. Pick up a gift box of calissons to bring home. 

Things to do in Aix-en-Provence

While Aix isn’t filled with bucket list things to do the way Paris is, there are plenty of noteworthy sights. Strolling the Old Town with its historic squares, many fountains, quaint cafes and boutiques was my favorite thing to do. 

Stroll the Old Town

You can’t miss Hotel de Ville and its square filled with shops and cafes. The clock tower is from the 16th century. Don’t miss the plaque under the archway commemorating when the city was liberated in 1944 by American Troops. 

Side note: WWII history enthusiasts should also make their way north to Normandy. I think about this itinerary, this hotel and the wonderful time we had all the time.

Shopping

Provence is home to renowned markets with each day offering something different. There’s a daily food market in Place Richelme offering local goods such as produce, honey, cheese, lavender and herbs. 

On Tuesday, Thursday and Saturdays, vendors transform the main boulevard, Cours Mirabeau, with stalls selling baskets, table linens, soaps, clothing and more. I particularly loved the evening marking in the summer along the Cours Mirabeau. Stop for a glass of rosé at one of the cafes lining the street for a break before tackling the rest of the market.

More information about daily markets and their location on the official tourism website. This events page is also helpful to plan your trip for specific dates (use the filter for city and market category).

If you’re not in Aix-en-Provence on a market day, don’t worry. There’s plenty of boutique shops to get your fill of French products. French brands like Fragonard, Panier des Sens and Diptyque are must stops for perfume, soap and lotion. Stop in Sézane to pick up a piece of their iconic knitwear (these are my top picks).

Hôtel de Caumont

Hôtel de Caumont is an arts center housed in a former private mansion built in 1715. Stroll through the beautiful gardens after enjoying the rotating temporary exhibitions. 

Visit Saint-Sauveur Cathedral 

The Aix cathedral is worth visiting for its beautiful architecture, painted organ and baptistery that dates back to the 6th century. The first time I visited Aix, I missed this and I’m so glad we made time for it the second time around. The details were extraordinary. 

Take the Petite Train 

I’m now converted to a petite train lover after taking one in Biarritz. The one in Aix runs from mid April to late September, and it’s a great way to get an overview of the city. It’s a fun activity for kids, as is the carousel around the corner from the La Rotonde fountain. 

Atelier de Cézanne 

At the time we visited, Paul Cézanne’s studio was unfortunately closed to visitors for renovations. He was born in Aix in 1839 and used this studio the last several years of his life until he died in 1906. If it has reopen by the time you visit, I think it would be a wonderful experience. Scheduled closure until summer 2025. Consult their site directly for updates and opening hours. 

Every day of the year, you can walk by his former apartment where he died. Find the plaque at 23 Rue Boulegon.

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