Last Updated on 12/24/2023
Walking down Christmas Alley in Naples (also known as Via San Gregorio Armeno) is a must do when visiting the city. The pedestrian street is only about 200 meters long, but itโs filled with artisan workshops and hundreds of nativity scenes, known as presepe. Shops are open all year round (although you should expect some closures in late August when Italians go on vacation for Ferragosto). In December, it is extra festive and feels like Naplesโ version of a Christmas marketโฆ just don’t expect mulled wine.
Christmas Alley is the ultimate place to find specialty figures for a nativity scene. Each shop on the narrow street sells everything to complete a Neapolitan presepe. Nativity scenes from Naples arenโt just about Mary, Joseph and Baby Jesus though.
Theyโre elaborate scenes that depict a whole village and are quite unique from your average manger. Youโll also find modern politicians and celebrities right along side biblical characters.
The cost of a presepe can vary greatly depending on quality and size. From miniature baskets to types of cheese, you can choose and customize every detail imaginable in the village. Some pieces can start at just a few euro, but a complete nativity scene with intricate figures could cost a few thousand dollars. Some presepe even have a water feature and electricity.
Along with every piece imaginable to build a custom presepe, youโll also find plenty of Pulcinella figures in the form of ornaments, statues, paintings, keychainsโฆ you name it. Pulcinella is a puppet character thatโs typically depicted wearing a loose white outfit with a black mask. He was first introduced to the commedia dellโarte in 17th century and is still a symbol of Naples today.
If you canโt take a whole presepe home with you, a little corno (horn) will certainly fit in your suitcase. These red chilis are said to ward against the Evil Eye and bring good luck. At just a few euros, they also make the perfect gift or souvenir.
How do I get to Christmas Alley in Naples?
Christmas Alley or Via San Gregorio Armeno is located right in historic district of downtown Naples (find it on Google maps here). Itโs just over a mile from the Alibus bus stop and the main cruise ship port. You can also take the metro to Dante or Museo and then walk about 10 minutes to Christmas Alley.
At the north end of the street, youโll find San Lorenzo Maggiore Basilica. The church was built in the 13th century, directly on top of a Roman market excavated in the 90s. This is also the square where the Napoli Sotterranea (Naples Subterranean) tour starts. Iโm slightly claustrophobic so decided to pass on this tour, but I’ve heard it’s unbelievable. Check out more information on the Naples Subterranean tour.
If youโre going to Christmas Alley in Naples, you have to have pizza at the legendary Sorbilloโs and a coffee at Gambrinus. Sorbillo’s is located just around the corner. How convenient.
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LOL that’s not Elvis in the pic. It’s Freddy Mercury!
Haha! You’re right! I just saw the stance and the white suit and immediately went to Elvis. Thanks!