I don’t have to pretend that Naples is quaint or darling for it to be beautiful. It is in its own complicated way. There’s a saying that Rome is the heart of Italy, but Naples is its soul. Naples is gritty and chaotic, yet beautiful and authentic at the same time.
After two years of living a long metro line away from downtown Napoli, I’ve yet to write a guide to Naples. Maybe it’s because it’s a beautiful mess that’s hard to grasp in the usual, “Here’s where to sleep, what to do and where to get the best pizza” (but I will get to that later).
Naples is one of the most poor and densely populated cities in all of Europe. To be honest, I struggle with my own love hate relationship with the city. It’s a complicated and unapologetic. Things run at there own pace. A pace that coincides with “I’ll do as I damn please.”
Cars are old and dented, as you’d expect on a practically lawless roadway. Vespa drivers are joined by other passengers, kids and maybe even a dog at their feet. The city’s cars crawl along the cobblestones like a wounded snake and scooters honk constantly as they zig zag through the gridlock. Once you get a little speed going, it’s like driving in a Mad Max movie.
All the stereotypes are alive and well in Naples. Neapolitans are always yelling, fiercely gesticulating. You’d think they just crossed their family rival when they’re really simply talking about what they did last weekend. They shout near an old woman shuffling down the narrow alleyways where light is barely coming in from the tall apartment buildings above. She’s just come from the market carrying a bag with passata and fresh vegetables. Another woman is undoubtedly either hanging laundry or sweeping the balcony above, probably smoking a cigarette. Everyone is sweating from the oppressive heat and humidity.
All the while, Vesuvius’s ever present veil looms in the distance. I was told there’s a saying Neapolitans use after saying “See you tomorrow” (after saying “Ciao” no fewer than five times) that translates to “God willing.” As in, “I’ll see you tomorrow if this volcano doesn’t take us all out in the night.”
Naples has some truly amazing juice. You just have to squeeze a little hard sometimes. Here’s my guide to Naples to help you make that squeeze a little easier….
Guide to Naples
Where to Eat
Pizza. Of course, pizza. Eat it. Eat it all and don’t split it. It’s your obligation to Naples. I’ve written a guide for where to find the best gluten free pizza, but these pizzerias also make amazing regular pizza as well (as my husband can attest).
Mennella il Gelato– Hands down, my favorite gelato in town (locations in Vomero and near Piazza del Plebiscio).
To Drink (Coffee and Cocktails)
A “Bar” in Italy is not just a place for a beer. Most of the time it means a place to grab a coffee at the counter.
Established in 1860, Gran Caffé Gambrinus is one of oldest café in Naples.
Officina is a great aperitivo spot near the castle.
To Do
Castel dell’Ovo- Entrance to the top view point is free.
Castel Nuovo
See a performance at the San Carlo Theatre- if you don’t have time for a performance, at least go inside and see this beautiful theatre.
Visit Pompeii or Herculaneum
Archeolgical Museum – a close second if you can’t make it Pompeii, or don’t fancy walking around for miles in the baking sun.
If it’s nice weather, take a day trip to the nearby beaches or islands.
Museo Cappella Sansevero/The Veiled Christ statue
Naples Underground
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To Stay
The area along the waterfront near the Castel dell’Ovo has several nice hotels in an ideal location.
As with most things in Naples, Airbnbs are pretty affordable. Choose somewhere around Chiaia or Vomero.
Grand Hotel Parker’s for luxury with an incredible view of the city and Vesuvius.
PIN IT FOR LATER
Just found out about your blog and i’m loving it! xx
http://www.isabellazogheib.com
Thank you so much, Isabella!
Loving all the photos your took! Do you mind telling me the general areas of Naples you explored? I’m only going to be in Naples for a day. How did you manage getting around the city (public transport, taxi or mostly walking?)
Hi Sarah, I mainly take the metro and walk when I visit Naples. That really depends on where you are going though. These photos were taken all around the city, but mainly near Piazza Plebiscito and the castle on the water. There are plenty of amazing pizza places in walking distance of the mains sites! Enjoy!
Since finding out I’m Sicilian thanks to ancestry, my family and I are taking a Mediterranean cruise to Italy and Greece and will be in Naples for hopefully one exciting day, you’ve given us some great ideas.
That will be such a special cruise, Dave. Glad you found my tips helpful. Enjoy Naples!
Thank you, Scarlett !
I just found your blog and love it. We might be moving to Naples, so all of this information has been perfect.
How exciting, Michelle! Living in Naples was definitely an experience. You just have to go with the flow and have a lot patience. Feel free to email me in the future if you have any questions!
Hi, love your blog a lot and it’s very helpful to me since we are arriving to Naples next week and my kid have a celiac disease too it’s relaxing to know that there are a lot of possibilities for us. I wanted to know about the weather in August at Naples for traveling with young kids, is it that bad?
We’re going to spend most of the vacation in a farm at Ostuni but still, we have 3 nights at Naples
Thanks a lot
Hi Sherry,
I lived there for years and have celiac, so rest assured there will be some options. Sorbillo’s by the sea is my favorite place for pizza. Ferragosto is the time in August when Italians leave the city and go on a beach vacation, so you might run into a lot of closures. I won’t lie to you, Naples is hot and humid. It depends on what you are used to. If you’re from Texas, you’ll be fine. But if you’re from London, it might take a while to adjust. Ostuni will be wonderful as well!! What an experience for your kids! Enjoy!
I’m sorry but I’m from Naples and even if sometimes your words sounds lovely and deeply inspiring, some other times you do not really describe what Naples really is and feels like. Sometimes you bring those who read in a fantastic walk downtown Naples some other times you are quite offensive. I’m Napoletean, I’m from the province but I do not see myself or either of my people between your pages.
I’m sorry to have offended you, Vilandra. I am obviously an outsider and therefore experience Naples in a different way than a local. Thank you very much for your critical feedback. We lived in the area for over two years and I’ve missed it deeply since we moved. You are lucky to call such a beautiful region home.