I don’t have to pretend that Naples is quaint or darling for it to be beautiful. It is in its own way. There’s a saying that Rome is the heart of Italy, but Naples is its soul. Naples is gritty and chaotic, yet beautiful and authentic at the same time.
After two years of living a long metro line away from downtown Napoli, I’ve yet to write a guide to Naples. Maybe it’s because it’s a beautiful mess that’s hard to grasp in the usual, “Here’s where to sleep, what to do and where to get the best pizza” (but I will get to that later).
Naples is one of the most densely populated cities in all of Europe. To be honest, I struggle with my own love hate relationship with the city. It’s complicated and unapologetic. You can’t always rely on public transportation and things run at their own pace. A pace that coincides with “I’ll do as I damn please.”
Cars are old and dented, traffic signs are loosely interpreted. Vespa drivers are joined by other passengers, kids and maybe even a dog at their feet. The city’s cars crawl along the cobblestones like a wounded snake and scooters honk constantly as they zig zag through the gridlock. Once you get a little speed going, it’s like driving in a Mad Max movie.
Naples is always alive. Even on a hot, sticky day during Ferragosto when the city is almost empty, there’s still an energy in the air. In the evening, you’ll see Neapolitans sitting at an outdoor terrace, drinking beer or an Aperol Spritz, smoking cigarettes and catching up with friends.
Nearby an old woman shuffles along a narrow alleyways where light is barely coming in from the tall apartment buildings above. She’s just come from the market carrying a bag with passata and fresh vegetables. Another woman is undoubtedly either hanging laundry or sweeping the balcony above. Everyone is sweating from the heat and humidity.
All the while, Vesuvius’s ever present veil looms in the distance. I was told there’s a saying Neapolitans use after saying “See you tomorrow” that translates to “God willing.” As in, “I’ll see you tomorrow if this volcano doesn’t take us all out in the night.”
Naples is truly an amazing city with over 2000 years of history. Between archeological sites, historical tours and finding the best pizza, there’s endless thing to do in Naples.
*This guide has been updated in January 2021 and contains affiliate links. I might earn a commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support!*
Travel Guide to Naples, Italy
Where To Stay in Naples
The area along the waterfront near the Castel dell’Ovo has several nice hotels in an ideal location. Hotel Royal Continental, Hotel Excelsior and Grand Hotel Santa Lucia are all right next to each other, equally offering sea views and easy access to the port.
Where to Eat in Naples
Pizza. Of course, pizza. Eat it. Eat it all and don’t split it. It’s your obligation to Naples. I’ve written a guide for where to find the best gluten free pizza, but these pizzerias also make amazing regular pizza as well (as my husband can attest).
L’ Antica Pizzeria Da Michele – This is the restaurant in the scene from Eat Pray Love where Julia Roberts visits Naples and “has a relationship with the pizza.” There’s two classics to choose from.
Starita -This is first place we went for pizza, so it will always be special to me. They’ve been making pizza for over 100 years.
Sorbillo’s – I prefer the location here because they have gluten free pizza and you can eat outside with views of the castle and ocean.
Da Concettina ai Tre Santi and 50 Kalo are also good choices.
Mennella il Gelato– Hands down, my favorite gelato in town (locations in Vomero and near Piazza del Plebiscito).
Where To Drink (Coffee and Cocktails)
A “Bar” in Italy is not just a place for a beer. Most of the time it means a place to grab a coffee at the counter.
Established in 1860, Gran Caffé Gambrinus is one of oldest bars in Naples. Be sure to get the local speciality, sfogliatelle.
Officina is a great aperitivo spot near the Castel dell’Ovo.
Stairs Coffee Shop is situated on a pedestrian only street in Vomero. This area will get crowded with people strolling and shopping.
Things To Do in Naples
See a performance at the San Carlo Theatre. If you don’t have time for a performance, at least go inside to see this beautiful theatre.
Castel dell’Ovo- Entrance to the top view point is free. Be sure to stroll along the waterfront in front of the castle.
Take the Naples Underground tour. I am slightly claustrophobic so this wasn’t for me, but I have heard this is a wonderful and unique tour.
Visit Castel Nuovo and Castel Sant’Elmo.
Take a trip to Pompeii or Herculaneum.
Archeolgical Museum – a close second if you can’t make it Pompeii, or don’t fancy walking around for miles in the baking sun.
If it’s nice weather, take a day trip to the nearby beaches or islands.
Visit Piazza del Plebiscito. Then, walk over to Galleria Umberto.
Go to the Museo Cappella Sansevero and see the Veiled Christ statue.
Walk down Christmas Tree Alley.
Is Naples Dangerous?
Safety is one of the most common concerns I hear about visiting Naples. I wince when people say Naples is dangerous, then they say they only saw the area around the train station. A crowded train station is hardly the jewel of any city, much less a very populated city that serves as the bottle neck for all traffic to neighboring tourist destinations like Sorrento, Capri and the Amalfi Coast.
That particular area is not the best part of town and experienced pick pockets know how to take advantage of travelers passing through. Of course, there are less desirable areas of Naples that I would not feel comfortable in, just like any city in the world.
Also keep in mind that Neapolitans love fireworks at all times of the day. (Truly, Naples is the best place to be on New Year’s Eve.) It’s common to hear loud fireworks, a noise not to be confused with gunshots.
Naples is certainly not everyone’s cup of tea, but I hope you can at least give it a chance and see more than the train station.
READ NEXT: Day Trips from Naples, Italy
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Jim Whitman says
My wife and I visited Napoli for the first time in June 2019. Planning (and hoping) a return in October 2021 adding week on Capri and 10 days traveling Puglia. My mother and father met in Napoli in Fall 1944; he was a wounded paratrooper and she was a U.S. Army nurse. We are returning for our 50th wedding anniversary and probably last trip to Europe. We stayed at the BEST B&B with a view in Napoli. Dipintodiblu! Will stay again. Thank you for your view of Napoli. Oh, we have lived in Guayaquil, Ecuador and Napoli almost feels like home. . but the Pizza is BETTER. 🙂
Scarlett | Petite Suitcase says
Hi Jim,
What a sweet way for your parents to meet! Thank you for sharing.
Glad to hear you enjoy Napoli and the pizza : ) There are so many beautiful views in that area of Posillipo. What a find. I hope you can return again this year. Ten days in Puglia will be lovely. Enjoy your trip (fingers crossed) and happy early anniversary!
Joel says
You lost me at ‘gluten-free pizza’.
Teresa Oliveira says
Hi, I found it very interesting and loving the tips of the blog of vcs! Valuable tips to plan your trip to Italy and avoid beginner mistakes. Congratulations on the site and this post will help a lot of people !!!
Scarlett | Petite Suitcase says
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the post.
Vilandra says
I’m sorry but I’m from Naples and even if sometimes your words sounds lovely and deeply inspiring, some other times you do not really describe what Naples really is and feels like. Sometimes you bring those who read in a fantastic walk downtown Naples some other times you are quite offensive. I’m Napoletean, I’m from the province but I do not see myself or either of my people between your pages.
Scarlett | Petite Suitcase says
I’m sorry to have offended you, Vilandra. I am obviously an outsider and therefore experience Naples in a different way than a local. Thank you very much for your critical feedback. We lived in the area for over two years and I’ve missed it deeply since we moved. You are lucky to call such a beautiful region home.
Elizabeth says
I’m glad Vilandra said this. I thought so too. Your words and the photos you took are beautiful, however you come off as rather culturally insensitive, particularly the sentence “All the stereotypes are alive and well in Naples.” It’s rather patronizing.
Scarlett | Petite Suitcase says
Of course, I would never mean to be disrespectful or patronizing. Naples is an amazing city and I really enjoyed the time I spent there. I’ll be sure to update this post. Thank you for your comment.
J.D. says
Hi Scarlett. Thank you for your advice and sharing your experience. Truly, Naples is an acquired taste made for tastebuds many just don’t possess. I’m one of them! Truth and candor are important caveats for those considering to relocate to any city or country. Had I’d fully known the struggles my wife and I would have had in Naples, we would have never relocated here. I pray we begin enjoying this city and culture before it’s time for us to leave. I will also visit the sites you’ve recommended.
Scarlett | Petite Suitcase says
Hi JD, Thank you so much for your thoughtful comment. I understand that Naples isn’t for everyone. There is definitely an adjustment period when relocating (and certain things you might never get used to!). Definitely check out the places I recommended in this post. I truly miss living in Italy!
Don’t forget about the wonderful travel opportunities. There is so much to see in Europe and the options nearby aren’t bad either. Rome, the Amalfi Coast, Ischia and Capri are all so close.
Feel free to email me if you have any other questions!
Sherry says
Hi, love your blog a lot and it’s very helpful to me since we are arriving to Naples next week and my kid have a celiac disease too it’s relaxing to know that there are a lot of possibilities for us. I wanted to know about the weather in August at Naples for traveling with young kids, is it that bad?
We’re going to spend most of the vacation in a farm at Ostuni but still, we have 3 nights at Naples
Thanks a lot
Scarlett | Petite Suitcase says
Hi Sherry,
I lived there for years and have celiac, so rest assured there will be some options. Sorbillo’s by the sea is my favorite place for pizza. Ferragosto is the time in August when Italians leave the city and go on a beach vacation, so you might run into a lot of closures. I won’t lie to you, Naples is hot and humid. It depends on what you are used to. If you’re from Texas, you’ll be fine. But if you’re from London, it might take a while to adjust. Ostuni will be wonderful as well!! What an experience for your kids! Enjoy!
Michelle says
I just found your blog and love it. We might be moving to Naples, so all of this information has been perfect.
Scarlett | Petite Suitcase says
How exciting, Michelle! Living in Naples was definitely an experience. You just have to go with the flow and have a lot patience. Feel free to email me in the future if you have any questions!
Ron says
Thank you, Scarlett !
Dave Murphy says
Since finding out I’m Sicilian thanks to ancestry, my family and I are taking a Mediterranean cruise to Italy and Greece and will be in Naples for hopefully one exciting day, you’ve given us some great ideas.
Scarlett | Petite Suitcase says
That will be such a special cruise, Dave. Glad you found my tips helpful. Enjoy Naples!
Sarah says
Loving all the photos your took! Do you mind telling me the general areas of Naples you explored? I’m only going to be in Naples for a day. How did you manage getting around the city (public transport, taxi or mostly walking?)
Scarlett | Petite Suitcase says
Hi Sarah, I mainly take the metro and walk when I visit Naples. That really depends on where you are going though. These photos were taken all around the city, but mainly near Piazza Plebiscito and the castle on the water. There are plenty of amazing pizza places in walking distance of the mains sites! Enjoy!
Isabella says
Just found out about your blog and i’m loving it! xx
http://www.isabellazogheib.com
Scarlett | Petite Suitcase says
Thank you so much, Isabella!