Guide to Lourmarin in Provence

Lourmarin is one of the most charming villages in Provence and absolutely worth visiting. You’ll find facades covered in climbing vines and cobblestoned alleys lined with shops. Complete with a castle, a lively weekly market and boutique hotels.

It’s even part of the association “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France” (meaning the most beautiful villages of France) that promotes visiting rural small towns.

It’s the kind of village where you’re sure to see some familiar faces during your stay, no matter how long. We ran into another traveling family visiting Lourmarin who we had met at Domaine de Fontenille a few hours before. We also saw our restaurant server from the night before walking the streets of the market. And then, I noticed the couple from breakfast was also at the castle the next day. All to say, it’s an even smaller world in this small town.

I only stayed for two nights, but Lourmarin would make an excellent base for a longer stay to see more of Provence. Conversely, you could also just go for a few hours to get a taste.

In this short guide, I’ll share where to stay, the top things to do, tips on where to eat, and a weekly market I wouldn’t miss.

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Where to Stay in Lourmarin

There are two notable Beaumier hotels in Lourmarin, which at first I thought was interesting that a hotel group would have two properties in the same place. However after visiting both, they are surprisingly different.

Le Moulin – Located right in the village center, I loved the energy and overall buzz of Le Moulin. There’s a full bar and restaurant on the ground floor, not to mention nice outdoor dining spaces and a small pool. The boutique hotel is beautifully designed inside and out with ochre bathroom tiles, earth tones and crawling vines. Family suites available.

Le Galinier – This 18th century country house has more of a secluded feel on the outskirts of Lourmarin. It’s a short walk to the center of town making it the perfect choice for a more quite stay, but access to the village.

Complete with a large pool, although it was too cold to fully enjoy in mid-September. With a wide range of rooms offered from a cozy classic to apartments for 6, it’s suitable for families or couples.

Things to do in Lourmarin

Local Market

The Friday market is worth working your itinerary around. We walked through early in the morning and Lourmarin was just starting to wake up with producers setting up their stalls. In about an hour, the walkway and main square was filled with people loading up their bags. I picked up cheese, olive tapenade and bottle of Chateau de Mille rose (a winery I wish I had more time to visit).

Château de Lourmarin

After securing the picnic goods back in our room, we toured Château de Lourmarin. The 15th century Renaissance castle was built on the ruins of a former fortress. After decades of decline, it was eventually restored in the 1920s. Today, the castle boasts an impressive spiral staircase, views of Lourmarin, restored interiors and a fish pond at the entrance (my son had a hard time leaving that last one). 8 euros to enter. More information about hours and prices.

Don’t miss the small wine cave at the foot of the castle for a tasting

Restaurants

You can’t go to Lourmarin without a meal at Cafe Gaby, a mainstay serving 3 meals a day. I can vouch for both breakfast and dinner. Excellent for people watching (and scouting chic linen outfits) as the terrace faces the main walkway through town.

Bacheto is also a wonderful restaurant housed in Le Moulin hotel. Enjoy a meal on the outdoor terrace or beautifully designed dining room. I got the seasonal vegetables and cheese plate paired with the local wine suggested by our server.

Just 10 minutes by car, Domaine de Fontenille is a Relais & Chateaux property worth peeling yourself away from Lourmarin. We had the best time relaxing by their fountain with a glass of wine while my son watched the fish. They offer seasonal menus and dining events in the garden during summer. Check the menu and make a dining reservation.

Shopping

If you miss the Friday market, there are plenty of nice shops. La Colline was my favorite with its selection of Mariage Freres tea, candles and pottery. Across the street, find wine bar Le Tonneau that always seemed busy and a popular choice.

If you can’t swing a trip to Domaine de Fontenille (or you can’t get enough), you can enjoy their wine at the small shop in town.