Guide to the Island of Ortigia & Syracuse, Sicily

Last Updated on 01/14/2024

To steal a line from Rick Steves, “If you like Italy as far south as Rome, go further south. It just gets better…” The island of Ortigia in Sicily is almost as south as you can go in Italy, and it is simply wonderful. In just a day in Syracuse you could visit beaches, see ancient Greek temples, eat unforgettable food and stroll around a Roman amphitheatre.

However, Sicily is known for being disorganized and it is not dissimilar from the beautiful mess that is Naples. While I lived in Naples, I always wanted to visit Sicily and the nearby Aeolian Islands. For this trip though at 7 months pregnant, we opted for an island a little less remote. 

Sycacuse’s old town center of Ortigia is connected to Sicily by just two small bridges. The tiny island that spans about 1 mile long is surrounded by turquoise waters, just begging to be swam in during a hot summer day. Ortigia has its own rich history, wonderful food and beautiful scenery that make it worthy of a stop on any Sicilian itinerary.

Where to Stay

I stayed at Hotel Gutkowski which is housed in two old buildings from the 1800s. Rooms are minimal and the bathrooms could use a bit of a refresh, but it is in a great location and has a very charming terrace overlooking the ocean.

When we checked in, I was disappointed that our “standard double room” (the last room available when I booked) ended up looking like a basement storage room with black tile flooring and a small window with bars. In short, nothing resembling their photos. Luckily, they were able to move us to another room that was better.

By the looks of some other reviews, it seems that experiences can vary greatly depending on what room you get. All to say, I would consider staying here again, but only if I could secure an ocean view room. I peeked in one as it was being cleaned, and it did look quite nice.

Things to See & Do

The top thing to do in Syracuse is visit the Neapolis Archaeological Park. Most people marvel at the Greek theatre that was built in the 3rd century, but I also quite enjoyed the expansive ancient Roman amphitheatre used for horse races and gladiator battles. 

A limestone cave called “The Ear of Dionysius” also draws visitors due to its unique “S” shape and acoustic. The term was coined by Caravaggio when he visited in 1608. Within the cave, voices are amplified 16 times. So, legend has it that Dionysius housed political prisoners there in order to better eavesdrop on their conversations. 

For just a few more euros than the entry ticket, you can book a guided tour. See opening times.

Go for a swim in one of the rocky swimming points or on the pebble beach. Spiaggia di Cala Rossa is the main beach on Ortigia, but there are several other swimming areas around the island. Find a small beach near the dock in front of Giardino Aretusa or climb down the staircase on Forte Vigliena to the ocean.

The Cathedral of Syracuse was built in the 7th century on the site of a previous Greek temple. After the earthquake in 1693, the facade was rebuilt in Baroque style. I particularly loved the carved ceiling and hanging iron chandeliers under each arch. 

Years ago, I saw a photo on Pinterest of a wedding that took place at the Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista (Church of Saint John the Baptist). So naturally, I had to go see it. The doors were closed, but I was able to peak in between the cracks to see the 15th century roofless church. If you’re there on a Saturday in summer, I bet you could get a glimpse of a wedding!

There are a handful of nice ceramic shops around the island. If your suitcase allows, get a ceramic pine cone. They are a traditional symbol of Sicily that represents fertility and good fortune.

Visit the morning street market to see the stalls of fresh fish, produce and cheeses. Complete with the stall owners shouting, gesticulating and making sales with the locals. 

Where to Eat & Drink

The market area is also home to several restaurants. Caseificio Borderi is a must with a line around the corner to prove it. Sinking your teeth into a hard earned sandwich is the perfect ending to a late morning walk through the market.

I found the employees friendly, hard working and boasting that classic Italian enthusiasm for their food. After about 30 minutes of waiting, they also kindly offered me a place to sit under the shade of their storefront. I was about 7 months pregnant and even in late spring it seemed like heat was radiating off the pavement (It could have possibly been the hormones… just possibly.)

TIP: Get a number from the deli ticket machine before you get in line! Even though there is a line, they also still call numbers so we saw several people behind us in line get served first because they had a number.

Alternatively, right next door you’ll also find Fratelli Burgio. The salumeria offers an impressive selection of cheese and wine, plus a larger seating area than its neighbor. 

Conveniently located right around the corner, go to Levante Gelato Artigianale after for a sweet treat. I actually visited this place twice during my short trip.

Casually sip a cocktail from BOATS as you sit outside overlooking the Temple of Apollo. The ruins of the Greek temple date back to the 6th century BC.

You could walk right by Cortile Verga if you didn’t know where to look. The cocktail bar is tucked behind the main street in a beautiful palazzo. Grab a seat outside and enjoy their drinks and small bites. 

How to get to Ortigia, Syracuse

I drove from Catania as part of a longer itinerary in Sicily. I felt like I won the lotto when I got a free parking spot on the street right next to our hotel. However, I would not advise attempting this during the high season. Parking is not ample on the island, so I would go directly to a parking lot or park on the Syracuse side and walk over. 

While you absolutely need a car to visit some parts of Sicily, Syracuse could easily be visited by train from Catania. Trains leave from Catania Centrale several times a day and reach Siracusa train station in a little over 1 hour. Check timetables and prices on Trenitalia.

I’d recommend taking that train straight on to Taormina as you leave Syracuse.

Read next: Guide to Taormina, Sicily.