As soon as we moved to Italy, I wanted to explore the white alleys of Ostuni, the Trulli houses of Alberbello and the sandy beaches of Puglia. After a year and half, we finally took a weekend trip to experience all three. There is so much more to Puglia than Ostuni and Alberobello, but there are only so many days in a weekend. In this short guide to two cities in Puglia, I’ll share where to go for gelato and an aperitivo, where to stay in Ostuni, and the place where I had one of my all time favorite meals in Italy (it was that good).
On a Friday we left the Naples area and arrived to our Airbnb in Ostuni after a few hours. I chose to stay in Ostuni, but staying overnight in a masseria or Trulli resort would also be a unique experience. First time Airbnb users can get a discount here.
Alfie took full advantage of the rooftop terrace while I spent the afternoon exploring the white city, wandering in ceramic shops and buying local olive oil.
For our first night in Ostuni, I booked dinner at Masseria Il Frantoio without hesitation. We just went for dinner, but you can also book for the night. From the tour of the grounds to the 8-course dinner with wine pairings, the whole experience was detailed, intimate and homey.
Don’t expect a menu. They only prepare what is in season and growing in their garden. Most of the local dishes are vegetarian and they are happy accommodate any allergies. I have celiac disease and it was not a problem for them to create gluten free dishes. These iPhone photos really don’t do the meal justice, so you’ll have to trust me that this restaurant is truly amazing.
We spent the next day at a lido on the beach not far from Ostuni. This sandy beach was filled with lido after lido. Lido Verde and Lido Bizarro were popular choices among the locals. For a luxury experience, check out Coccaro Beach Club a little north.
Pausa Café is the perfect spot for an aperitivo in one of the main piazzas. Try gelato or granita at Cremeria La Scala across the same piazza. Also, Gelateria Borgo Antico under the Arco Scoppa is a crowded spot. Get the mandorla flavor if you like marzipan.
Al Solito Posto was highly recommended by our Airbnb host, but we couldn’t get a reservation. Luckily we found Borgo Antico Bistrot for dinner on their inviting outdoor patio. Be sure to get anything with burrata (that’s really the case for all of Puglia!). This was a great spot for relaxing outside and taking in the view.
On our last morning, we grabbed a cappuccino at White Ostuni Tito Schipa before hitting the road to Alberbello. There’s a nice patio in the back which doubles as a great aperitivo spot too.
Alberobello is about 45 minutes from Ostuni so it made for the perfect stop on the way home. You’ll spot Trulli houses all around this region, but Alberobello is famous for them.
Trulli houses were built in this pyramid style without cement because they could be easily dissembled. Therefore, residents could avoid paying taxes on their homes.
Honestly, you really don’t need more than a few hours to explore the Trulli houses in Alberobello. You should plan enough time to go to Trulli e Puglia Wine Bar though. It’s an underground wine bar right off the main street. Our server was helpful at making suggestions from their local wine selection. Being the cheese addict I am, we got the cheese plate paired with jam and burrata with sun dried tomatoes.
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