Last Updated on 12/30/2021
I can never get enough of the Amalfi Coast, particularly the town of Positano. Since moving to Italy, this idyllic coastal town has quickly become my happy place and I’m always finding excuses to visit. Even looking at photos, it’s hard to believe this legendary luxury destination was once a poor fisherman’s village.
In this complete travel guide to Positano, I’ll share where to stay, the best places to eat, my go-to aperitivo spots and things to do in town. I also included how to get there (the big hurdle) and some other things to consider when planning a trip to the Amalfi Coast.
*This post was updated in March 2021 and contains affiliate links, which mean I might make a commission if you make a purchase at no cost to you. Thank you for your support!*
Things to do in Positano
Spend the day at the Arienzo Beach Club for the best experience at a lido.
Hike the Path of the Gods. The views are incredible!
You can’t miss the church of Santa Maria Assunta in the town center.
Take a ferry over to Capri or a bus to Amalfi for a day trip.
Where to Eat in Positano
If you need more than a cornetto for breakfast, Casa E Bottega is a darling home goods concept store serving healthy salads, omelets and fresh smoothies.
La Tagliata for an experience. This restaurant up on the hill above Positano is known for it’s stunning views and appetizers so filling you’ll forget about the main course. Next 2 for an upscale dinner.
Buca di Bacco Ristorante for dinner down by the main beach and La Pergola’s Buca di Bacco Bar downstairs for a casual aperitivo. Be sure to get the limoncello spritz. They put lemon granita in it!
After posting this photo on Instagram, a few people commented that Il Fornillo is also a wonderful restaurant.
Along Positano’s smaller Fornilla beach, catch a relaxed drink at Da Ferdinando down by the water.
For a fancy (and pricey) aperitivo, posh crowd and stunning views of Positano, Franco’s Bar of Le Sirenuse is the place to be seen.
Bar Bruno for an equally beautiful view a little farther up the street.
Where to stay in Positano
I’ve stayed at Dimora del Podesta and would absolutely return. This is a wonderful B&B with friendly staff, an excellent location and fair price point. Alfie felt right at home!
Also Read: Where to Stay in Positano
On a last minute trip, I felt like I won the jackpot with the last room available at Hotel Dimora Fornillo. They have a peaceful grassy terrace with stunning ocean views and easy access to Fornillo beach.
Casa Albertina is a more central option (read: only slightly less stairs) for rooms with a balcony and ocean view.
I’ve walked by Casa Buonocore a dozen times and I’ve always wanted to stay there.
For a five star experience, Le Sirenuse on the main street or Il San Pietro di Positano and Villa TreVille a little outside of town.
What to Wear
I always bring flat sandals, a bathing suit and a few dresses. Be sure to pack a hat for sun protection and big tote for going to the beach. For the evening, I’d recommend avoiding stilettos, but you could still get around in wedge espadrilles if you’re prefer heels.
You’ll want to save some room in your luggage for souvenirs. When you’re there, check out Nadir or La Bottega Di Brunella for fine linen. Also try to pack light as you’ll probably be carrying your luggage up stairs and hills.
How to get to Positano
By ferry: The ferries to Positano from Naples stop in Sorrento first. There is no direct ferry from Naples to Positano.
By bus: From the Naples Airport Capodichino, you can take a bus directly to Sorrento and bypass the Circumvesuviana train. I used Curreri Viaggi once for 10 euro and would recommend it over the train if timing allows.
By train/bus: From the downtown Naples train station, you can take the Circumvesuviana train to Sorrento. Please note that this isn’t exactly a luxury train and closely watch your belongings. Transfer to the Sita bus in Sorrento. The Sita Bus leaves at least twice an hour from Sorrento during the high season (schedule).
Both Sorrento and Naples are worth seeing, but if you just want to get to Positano as quick as you can, then I would hire a private transfer.
Also read: How to get to Positano from Naples
If you’re visiting Positano from Rome, you might also want to consider taking a train to Salerno and then a ferry to Positano.
I usually drive to Positano since I have a Fiat, but I’ve also taken the Circumvesuviana. The drive is about 90 minutes from Naples. Most hotels will be able to direct you to their overnight parking (around €20 a night). If you’re going to rent a car be sure to read my tips for driving!
How long should I stay in Positano?
This really depends on your budget and the type of vacation you are looking for. If you are a beach person and just want a relaxing holiday, go for it and stay a week! However, hotels are more expensive in Positano.
If you’re working with a more limited budget, it is possible to enjoy what Positano has to offer for just one night. While you can do a day trip from Naples, it is nice to stay at least one night. After all the cruise ships have left and the day-trippers have returned to home base, Positano seems to quiet down and you can really experience a different side of the town.
More Positano Travel Tips
Positano is a luxury destination on the Amalfi Coast and it isn’t exactly a budge destination. You can stay for two or three nights in Naples for less than one night in a two star hotel in Positano.
Positano has a TON of stairs and steep inclines. People don’t talk about this enough. I’m a little embarrassed, but I am always a little sore after a weekend in Positano! So if you have a stroller, heavy luggage or an old dog named Alfie that you have to carry, expect to get a work out!
Yes, this town floods with tourist during the summer and when a cruise ship ports in Naples. You may want to consider shoulder season if you want Positano all to yourself. I also went the first weekend of October one year and it was still lovely. The clouds were lurking and it sprinkled one morning, but there were certainly no lines or crowds.
Personally, I’m not going to let a little crowd get in the way of a sunny beach day and this sunset view….
John Steinbeck was right, “Positano bites deep.” I practically start planning my next weekend getaway right when I get home.
Great article! My husband and I are looking to take a week long trip to Positano in September of 2022 to celebrate our 25th wedding anniversary. We’d be traveling by car from Rome and would like to rent an apartment via VRBO or AirBnB, but have no idea where the best town would be to stay as far as reasonable pricing, places with parking, within reasonable distances to town and access to beaches, ferry, etc.
Hi there,
I read your blog and found it very informative. Would you say beginning of March is a good time to go for a honeymoon? Thank you!!
Hi Val,
Honestly, I think March is still a bit too cold. A lot of hotels are not even open at that time. Easter is traditionally thought of as the opening of the season. Congratulations! Hope you have a wonderful honeymoon, whenever you go!
Scarlett,
I also forgot to say that your blog is great. I plan to continue following it. Our trip to the Amalfi coast was the end of February/first of March. I was able to wear my favorite sandals a couple of days with just a denim jacket.
Thanks for all of your info.
That sounds like you got lucky with great weather. Glad you found my blog helpful!
Scarlett,
I was with a group that went Positano and then LaTagliata for lunch. The restaurant is such a hidden gem we would have never found without our day trip tour guide Luciana Coppola. I was our group leader for the trip and we stayed in Sorrento at the Antiche Mura Hotel. If I win the really big lottery, I’m moving!
Kristi,
I wish I had gone to La Tagliata for lunch so I could have enjoyed the view. I went at night for dinner and couldn’t see a thing.
I always go way far into details when playing the “If I win lotto…” game. It always involves Italy!
Glad you enjoyed your trip!
Hey there I love your blog. I had a question is it better to stay in Positano or Sorrento to explore the Amalfi coast? We won’t be doing a lot of beach days as we live in South Florida and we are going to the Greek Isles before we go to the Amalfi Coast. We want to explore the towns.
Hi Nandi, Both are great options. It is relatively easy to get to Capri, Praiano and Amalfi by bus or ferry from either town. You are probably closer to towns on the Amalfi Coast from Positano if you plan on taking the bus, but ferries run less frequently depending on what time of year. So, I would say it depends on your hotel and transportation preference. I would also look at the bus and ferry schedule ahead of time to see what would work best for your day trips. Also consider the walking time/incline from your hotel to ferry or bus stop. If you plan on hiring a private driver every day, this doesn’t matter as much. Either will be great. Enjoy your trip!
Such a lovely post! My husband and I are going to Positano first week of October. What are your recommendations as far as a pool? Should we book a hotel that has one or are beaches the better way to go? Thanks for the inspiration!!
Hi Jessica,
That all depends on your preference! Positano has wonderful beaches, but there are also nice pools at luxury hotels. Some of the smaller beach clubs on Fornillo beach can close around that time, but there should be lounge chair options over on the main beach. Early October weather can be tricky. It can be beautiful and sunny, but storms are known to roll in around that time of year. Be sure to read my guide on Where to Stay in Positano for some suggestions! Enjoy your trip!
Hi Scarlett, thanks for your great tips on Positano.
I’ve been planning a trip to the Amalfi Coast for more than a year but had to postpone it due to Covid-19 lockdowns.
As a photo fan I just loved your photos. Congrats.
Stay safe and well.
Hi José, Hope you are able to visit this year and travel restrictions start to ease up as things improve. Positano will be so special once you get there. Stay healthy!
Hi! I am loving your blog!! So helpful and beautiful photos. I am going to be there the first week of November for just one night. What type of weather can I expect?
Thank you, Katie! Positano has been hit with some bad rain storms the last few years. Hopefully, you’ll have sunny skies, but still expect it to be quite chilly. A lot of places will also be closed for the off season.
Your blog has given me so much travel inspiration. Your photos always look so dreamy. Based on this post, it looks like it was hot/warm even in Oct when you visited. Which month (May vs June) is a better time to visit the Amalfi coast in terms of weather/budget? Also, we managed to drive around the Dolomites, are the type of driving similar in that area (narrow road/switchbacks/fast drivers …)?
Hi Lisa,
Thank you! The photos in the post are taken from a few different trips, but mainly from July and September. When I went in October it was very humid and warm, but it also rained. June is better for weather, but hotels are slightly less expensive. So, maybe try for late May 🙂
In the Dolomites, the roads definitely have a lot of switchbacks (at least in the area I went to in Corvara). In my opinion, the drivers were less crazy and they generally follow the rules of the roads more than the area around Naples.
What to expect in June? I want warm sunny days with warmer ocean temps but not too hot as I want to spend all day every day outside ❤️
I’m dying to go to Positano. Your pics are so lovely!
XOXO Jessie
http://www.thoughtfultraveling.com
Thank you, Jessie. I just love this little town!
Positano looks absolutely beautiful! Cannot wait to go hear and will definitely be re-reading your guide before I go. Thanks!! XO Sandy
It’s such a lovely spot, Sandy! Positano is one of my favorite places in Italy!
Wow! What a gorgeous blog post. It makes me want to travel to Italy so badly! 🙂 I love all of your content. It is so bright and beautiful. Thank you for sharing, Scarlett! xo – The Pretty City Life ( http://www.theprettycitylife.com )
Ema, Thanks so much! Italy is such an amazing place and you would love all the Art History!